Brew Reviews

Ommegeddon

Availability: Limited batches; from the Ommegang brewery only and not available in stores or bars.

Price comparison: Free tasting at the brewery. Overpriced for purchase ($12 USD), in my opinion, but it's a highly specialized item.

Alcohol percentage by volume: Labeled as an 8%, but I felt it might possibly have aged ¼ to ½ percent stronger.

Cute bottle/label? 750 ml cage-corked bottle. Did not get to examine the bottle or check the batch number; label depicts an atomic bomb blast, of course. Served by a brewery volunteer in a disposable two-ounce plastic cup, which probably did not do it justice, but I'll allow it because, hey, the tour is free and I got to taste six other beers too, plus a variety of beer-washed cheeses, beer-mustards, horseradish pickles, and as many pretzels as I wanted. And Belgian chocolate. (People, if you are in the upper New York State area, near Cooperstown, do not miss this tour.)

Appearance: Bright golden with a stiff meringue-like head that dissipated too quickly, but might last longer in proper glassware.

Scent: A touch of sort-of buttery yeast with some small citrusy hops.

Flavor: A little, shall we say, funky, like drinking unsweetened lemonade while standing in a farmyard, but not in an unpleasant way. The mouthfeel was sharper at the start, but warmed almost to a feel that was, not quite creamy ... I'd almost say slippery, but that's not right either. Somewhere in between. Again, not unpleasantly. The pepperiness subsided to more of a citrus acidic finish, not unlike a lambic.

Impressions: Nicely balanced for a wild ale, and not as sour to my palate as a lambic, but definitely good to go with salty foods, or even a salad if it's got a strongly flavored, creamy dressing.

Will I buy this beer again? It's not available in stores, and I didn't buy a bottle at the brewery because I felt it was overpriced, but it wasn't bad at all, and if someone gave it to me as a gift, I'd accept it with genuine thanks and drink it quite easily.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Green Flash Extra Pale Ale

Availability: Local to the west coast of the U.S., but I had it shipped in as part of my Beer of the Month Club membership.

Price comparison: See above - I didn't pay for that membership, either; it was the gift my sister-in-law gave me for participating in her wedding to my brother. My family is very cool.

Alcohol percentage by volume: Unknown for sure, but not particularly powerful. Definitely less than 6% and conservatively less than 5%, but probably as close to 5% as makes no odds.

Cute bottle/label? Standard brown glass twelve-ouncer with a colorful depiction on its label of the "green flash", a natural phenomenon lasting about two seconds right before the sun sets below the ocean's horizon where its color changes from red or yellow to green.

Appearance: Clear bright golden with a creamy white head and soft carbonation.

Scent: Much more like flowers or herbs than pine, which surprised me, since west coast ales tend to use more woodsy hops. Also, I could definitely detect a pretzelly maltishness in the aroma, whereas usually, I can't smell the malt at all in west coast pale ales.

Flavor: Mellow and dry without being too astringent, plus, again, I was surprised by the fact that I could actually taste the malt comeback on the finish.

Impressions: Very light, refreshing, perfect for session. A little too light to drink with chili dogs, which is what I was having for lunch when I sampled this, but if I'd been outside picnicking (it was too cool outside and rain was threatening) it would not have been inappropriate.

I'm more inclined to call this an American pale ale than a west coast pale ale, based on the fact that it's not as piney as I've come to expect from that part of the country. This almost tasted like some of the microbrews I've had in Massachussetts and Pennsylvania.

Will I buy this beer again? It's not available on this coast, but if I can ever get it here, yes, I will. I'd also like to try some of the brewer's other offerings, such as their Belgian trippel and IPAs.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Newport Storm '05

Availability: Limited edition; probably long gone, since we're nearly into '07 already.

Price comparison: It was a gift from my brother. The company distributes other offerings throughout the New England area, and I know that its brewery in Rhode Island only dispenses beer in ½ gallon growlers at a cost of $10 for fresh brewed, but the Newport Storm is a high-alcohol limited edition and must retail for much more.

Alcohol percentage by volume: It was 11.7% when I got it, and I only managed to cellar it for a year before I couldn't stand any more suspense.

Cute bottle/label? Beautiful, slender cobalt glass 750-ml. bottle, corked like fine wine.

Appearance: Deep mahogany with pleasant carbonation, but no matter how patiently I poured, I couldn't get a head out of it. The most I could manage was a single layer of sparse bubbles in a thready island atop the chalice.

Scent: The first whiff reminded me of brownies — a dark-chocolate, baked aroma. Behind that was yeast, malt, and a cut-wood (as opposed to a growing tree) essence.

Flavor: Very like whiskey but with too much maltiness to not be immediately identified as beer with attitude. Undertones of raisins and black cherry, very warm and almost too sweet.

Impressions: A slight alcohol burn at the finish. I wish I'd gotten two bottles so I could see how much better it would have gotten with the benefit of even longer cellaring. A bit too strong for session, it would pair well with any strongly-flavored main course and probably should, because I think, especially after having aged an additional year after purchase, it probably packs more of a punch than its taste and feel imply.

Will I buy this beer again? About the worst thing I can say about this beer is that it's probably no longer available, and if someone's got some, it's either going to go at a pretty high price or require an awfully dear trade. Good as it was, I can't justify going into debt over it.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Cookhouse Ale

Availability: Cookhouse restaurants only

Price comparison: $5 a pint on tap at the restaurant. ($2 drafts on Sundays after two and Monday nights during football season.)

Alcohol percentage by volume: Unknown (house brew, varying averages). Certainly no more than 5% and probably less because it was very fresh.

Cute bottle/label? Served on tap in a chilled stout glass. Not proper glassware, as such, if one is going to be all anal about such things, but stout glasses are durable, economical, and sensible in a barbecue restaurant on a football day. And it was chilled, which is a point of consideration.

Appearance: Clear deep golden with a creamy white head. Not much visible carbonation activity.

Scent: Flowery hops.

Flavor: Slight hint of grassy bell pepper and citrus, but overall, a startling resemblance to a sixty-minute IPA in flavor (though not in kick); extremely hoppy and very little malt throughout. Clean, crisp mouthfeel with light sparkly bubbles, and a nicely dry finish.

Impressions: Tasty and refreshing pale ale. Very light and easily drinkable. Would probably cellar well if someone wanted to take the time and effort to bottle and store it. If your tastes don't tend toward stronger, more alcoholic beers, this is an excellent session brew and also pairs very well with the barbecue and home-cooking that is the Cookhouse's signature style.

My main problem with this beer is its non-nationwide status. I could recommend it to everyone I know, but many of them wouldn't be able even to sample it without getting on a plane. I can't see the Cookhouse bottling it for distribution anytime soon, and I can't say I blame them.

Will I buy this beer again? The first time I ate at this restaurant, I had Magic Hat 9 just because I was so delighted to find it on tap. However, having discovered this house offering, I'll be ordering Cookhouse Ale from now on, unless I specifically want something stronger.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Great Lakes Burning River

Availability: Year-round, but only in the Great Lakes region of the United States.

Price comparison: Dunno. Drank it as a guest of Nrem and Tawly.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 6%

Cute bottle/label? Standard twelve-ounce brown glass; label depicts, appropriately enough, a photograph of a burning river.

Appearance: I drank it from the bottle and neglected to check its clarity, color, and head retention. I'll wait here for your lawsuits.

Scent: Mild piney hops and brown rice or toasted wheat, with hints of flower perfume.

Flavor: Subtle malt and hops, with a soft, not overly carbonated mouthfeel and a very clean finish.

Impressions: The name, derived from any one of the three times that Cleveland's polluted Cuyahoga River caught fire, was a bit off-putting, but the beer is serviceable and very drinkable.

Will I buy this beer again? A decent, tasty, and relaxing session beer, sufficiently mild in flavor profile to pair well with pretty much any savory food, this beer only loses points with me in the fact that it's not available nationwide. I'll have more when I'm back in that part of the country, but I can't get it at home.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Horn Dog

Price comparison: About $2 more per twelve ounces than national-branded beer.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 10½%

Cute bottle/label? Standard twelve-ounce brown glass; label depicts a slavering creature that appears to be a crossbreed of a rabid dog and a dinosaur of some sort, given that it has spiny plates on its back and a large, rhino-like horn protuding from its forehead. This barleywinelike ale is a member of "the Flying Dog Litter of Ales."

Appearance: Dark reddish-black with a thick tan head that dissolved down to a small island of lace.

Scent: Plums, saltwater, heavy malt, alcohol.

Flavor: Very sweet, with prominent alcohol; malt and slightly like cherries in the first tasting, becoming more like toasted nuts as it warmed. Very slight hops and a thin finish with a vague alcoholic aftertaste.

Impressions: Neither barleywine nor ale, this is too thin to be warming in cold weather and too boozy to be refreshing in hot weather. Serve it with food, preferably a meal as opposed to snacks, and preferably something with some bitterness or smokiness: chili or sausage would stand up to this nicely and keep you from overindulging.

Will I buy this beer again? It's not bad, and for the price, it's slightly more cost-effective, if not as impressive, as barleywine. Also, I love the Flying Dog punkass labels. I'd buy this again and serve it with dinner if I was having company that could appreciate that artwork.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Morimoto Soba Signature Ale

Availability: Limited edition available only in select markets.

Price comparison: About $2 more (per twelve ounces) than the average domestic national brand.

Alcohol percentage by volume: Unlisted; around 6%.

Cute bottle/label? Twenty-two ounce brown glass bottle with an image of Iron Chef Morimotosan in traditional Asian garb silkscreened directly to the bottle in blue and white.

Appearance: Hazy orange with quickly dissipating head and no residual lace.

Scent: Vaguely toasty malt and light fruit tones.

Flavor: More malt than hops, with light citrus and berry overtones, and a woodsy finish.

Impressions: It wasn't bad at all, but not quite as interesting in flavor as the Morimoto Hazelnut.

Will I buy this beer again? I might; it was refreshing and drinkable, and would go well with seafood.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Shiner Bock

Availability: Year-round, but not nationwide. Only shipped to twenty states in the U.S. (predominantly southern).

Price comparison: More than one would normally pay for major brands down south, but about the same as one would pay for major brands in Connecticut.

Alcohol percentage by volume: Unlisted, but low; at a guess, I'd say between 3 and 4% alcohol.

Cute bottle/label? Standard brown glass twelve-ouncer; yellow and brown label with a front view of a yellow livestocky-looking animal with big curly horns. I don't know what exact species it is; it looked rather like a lion with ram's horns instead of a mane, which doesn't occur in nature, I'm fairly sure. Eventually, someone is going to tell me what it is supposed to be and I will feel extremely stupid for not having recognized it. I've prepared myself for the humiliation.

Appearance: Darkly-hued but transparent amber with a white head. Decent carbonation but not spectacular, spotty lace on the glass.

Scent: Slightly malty; nothing jumped out at me to be compared to anything else. Clean.

Flavor: Less sweet and sticky than I have come to expect from a bock. Light malt and a dry, unremarkable finish.

Impressions: Very fresh, with a thin mouthfeel that, coupled with its low alcohol content, made it quite refreshing. Not as fragrant as a lager, but its lack of complexity reminded me more of that style than of a bock. The industry does not considered Shiner to be a craft beer, but I'd venture to say that it pretty much is. There's no other excuse for a beer to seem this German when it originates in a proudly-patriotic state such as Texas.

Will I buy this beer again? This is what I will drink when I am visiting the southern United States, but it's not readily available in my part of the country. I'm sure the Shiner folks feel I ought to relocate on that basis, but I think it would be a bit more cost-effective if they would just increase their distribution.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Hitachino Nest Celebration 2004

Availability: Probably limited quanities of the 2004. The 2005, a 7½% ABV, is already in stores.

Price comparison: About 2½ times the price of the standard American macrobrew.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 9% at bottling, over a year ago. Possibly higher now due to continued fermentation.

Cute bottle/label? Chunky brown 11.2 ounce bottle; white label depicting a jolly Asian fellow celebrating the New Year in brightly-colored robes. The label also sports the tiny owl that is the Hitachino Nest logo.

Appearance: Opaque beige with a thick white froth and clingy lace.

Scent: Heavy sugars and malt, followed by the promised vanilla, coriander, and citrus peel.

Flavor: Sweet, but not harshly so. Very smooth mouthfeel with hints of cinnamon, orange peel, and malt in the front, to a puckery finish with not much hops.

Impressions: I've seen this listed as an Eisbock (ice-brew), but that's a bit misleading. What's going on here is that Hitachino brews this Celebration beer annually, combining beer ingredients via sake procedures and additions such as spices and orange zest. The cold-brewing concentration process is similar to that of brewing Eisbock, but the finished products are dissimilar.

Eisbocks go nicely with pungent foods such as cheese or sweet foods like fruit or dessert, whereas Celebration beer, with all its complexity, would be overpowering in that scenario. I felt it was a little high in alcohol content to serve as a session beer, so I put it with Chinese takeout and was happy with the pairing.

Will I buy this beer again? This is a special, and a little high in price, but I'd say it was drinkable, though somewhat sweet for my taste. However, of all the Hitachino Nest offerings, I like the Celebration best.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Grottenbier Bruin

Price comparison: About $3.00 USD more per twelve-ounces than the standard American macrobrew.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 6.7%.

Cute bottle/label? 750 ml brown glass, corked and caged, with a dignified blue and white label. The bottle I got has English labeling ("Grotten Brown" is the name on it).

Appearance: Dark brown, like cola, with a thick beige foam that dissapated to a scattering of lace islands.

Scent: Sweet fruitiness: bananas, raisins, cloves, and some citrus and malt.

Flavor: Bitter and yeasty, with a mild funkiness and not enough hops to balance it. A light caramel feel to the finish.

Impressions: It was Belgian, which made it more interesting and slightly higher-octane than domestic brews almost by definition, but it was also one of the less miraculous Belgians I've had.

Will I buy this beer again? I've had better for the price. Not bad, worth a try once, but I'm ready to move on.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Hang Ten Honey Wheat

Availability: Seasonal, on tap (not available into growlers) only, at Hops brewpubs.

Price comparison: About $3.75 USD per 16-ounce pint.

Alcohol percentage by volume: Unlisted, but low; certainly no more than 3½% alcohol.

Cute bottle/label? No, but lots of other merchandising (beer glasses and t-shirts available for sale at the brewpubs).

Appearance: Bright goldeny-yellow; very clear. Small white head left a thin lace island on the surface. Very lively carbonation.

Scent: Light hoppiness reminiscent of English breakfast tea.

Flavor: Mild honey; hoppier than the average wheat brew; nothing special at the finish.

Impressions: Obviously a very young brew. The mouthfeel was thin and the alcohol virtually nonexistent. That said, it tasted very good and was extremely thirst quenching. Good complement to the restaurant's overall menu, which is not what one would call heart-friendly (but hella good).

Will I buy this beer again? It's seasonal, but if they've got a vat going next time I'm in Hops, that is, indeed, what I'll be having.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Wagner Valley IPA

Price comparison: About the cost of a national domestic.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 6%

Cute bottle/label? Standard twelve-ounce brown bottle; black label with orange oval-shaped logo. Not at all special.

Appearance: Nice clear amber with a big white head that dissolved quickly but left rings on the glass.

Scent: Scent of spices and orchard fruits (pears and apples) when the bottle was opened; more hops emerged as the brew warmed.

Flavor: Smooth citrus with heavily floral hops, not much malt immediately, but a powdery dry finish with a little bit of warm malt present.

Impressions: Served cold, it was very refreshing for a humid summer night and its low ABV made it pretty relaxing and drinkable.

Will I buy this beer again? This is a good summer session beer - I wouldn't go tearing around in the sun and try to use this to rehydrate myself, but it lends itself well to sitting quietly and fanning oneself whilst recuperating from a long day at work. It would be a good complement to any meal cooked on the grill.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Piraat Triple IPA

Price comparison: Between $1.50 - $2 more (per twelve ounces) than the average domestic national brand.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 10½%

Cute bottle/label? I know one can get it in bottles, but I've never seen one in person. I got ½ gallon from the kegs at the MOBY DICK in one of my black growlers.

Appearance: Light golden orange with a big white head and some lace.

Scent: Mostly nice Belgian malt, but the alcohol is somewhat present on the aroma, particularly as it warms.

Flavor: The hops are spicy, with a citrus peel bite. The alcohol is evident but smoothed over by malt, with a yeasty finish.

Impressions: I found the carbonation, though natural, to be a bit high in this one. The flavors are pretty good. This is a fairly big beer, though its composition balances the alcohol well. I wouldn't drink it on an empty stomach, but it would be overpowered by any really strong or spicy foods. I'd say this would be a good choice with lightly-sauced poultry or seafood.

Will I buy this beer again? At the price, it's not an everyday drinking beer, but I'd refill the growler if I needed it for a specific dinner party or similar occasion.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Adnams Suffolk Special Bitter

Price comparison: About $2 more per 24 ounces than the average national domestic.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 4.3%

Cute bottle/label? 25 ounce heavy brown glass bottle with Adnams name molded into the base of the glass. Label is orange and purple depicting the lighthouse at Southwold.

Appearance: Clear bright orange with a smooth white, long-lasting head and clingy lace.

Scent: Very clean, lightly metallic but not unappetizingly so; floral and citrus hops.

Flavor: Malt and some butter with a refreshing bitter finish.

Impressions: As with just about any British bitter, don't serve it freshly cold out of the fridge. I pull this stuff out and let it sit on the counter unopened for twenty minutes to half an hour before pouring it into a chilled glass. It's a bit harshly carbonated, but great with anything salty.

Will I buy this beer again? Very refreshing and drinkable; well balanced and uncomplicated. Also it's fairly easy to get hold of and not terribly expensive. There are bitters I prefer, but I don't dislike this one and I can recommend it with a clear conscience as well. Good drinking on a school/work night, with its low ABV.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Ravell

Availability: Sporadic. Not only is Ravell not available year-round, it's not released at a specific time or season; rather, at the whim of Magic Hat Brewery.

Price comparison: Priced about the same as the average national domestics.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 4.9%

Cute bottle/label? Single 1.375 pint brown glass bottle. Magic Hat labeling is always very funky pop-artsy and this particular label depicts I'm-not-sure-what; it looks sort of like a cross between an x-ray of a hand and one of those 1960's table-art pieces made of metal rods and ping-pong balls. Also traditional with Magic Hat offerings, don't forget to read the inside of the cap, the beer drinker's equivalent of the fortune cookie. This cap said, "Don't try to prevent a predestined event."

Appearance: Black and opaque as strong coffee, with an almost pinkish head, neither thick nor enduring. The lacing, however, is steadfast and left polkadots on the glass.

Scent: A very strong aroma of bittersweet chocolate and freshly scraped vanilla bean, also a roasted essence to it like burgundy.

Flavor: Rich, dark-roasted coffee with vanilla; also that toasted oat character that I tend to expect from a porter. Some maltiness that never actually resolves into sweetness, and a clean finish light with alcohol and smokiness.

Impressions: The differences between Ravell and Stoney Creek Vanilla Porter are analagous to the differences between Turkish-brewed and automatic-drip coffee. As good as the Stoney Creek was, it seems like a thin copy of this porter. Plus, with Ravell, you get the bottle cap. I'm always amused by the cap.

Will I buy this beer again? As many points as Ravell wins for being one of the most satisfying domestic porters I've tasted, it loses some by its lack of availability. Yes, I will buy it again, and yes, it will be a treat, because when it's gone, you never know when it's coming back.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Stoney Creek Vanilla Porter

Price comparison: About the same as national-branded beer.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 5½%

Cute bottle/label? Standard twelve-ounce brown glass; standard Stoney Creek fish (I think it's a trout, but what do I know about fish?) logo centered on the label in beige-on-beige tones.

Appearance: Dark brown, nearly purple, with a thick tan head and vivacious carbonation. Streaks of thin lace left on the glass.

Scent: Cocoa, vanilla, coffee, malt.

Flavor: Roasted chicory and toasted white bread with vanilla bean (not artificial vanilla flavoring) on exhalation. More vanilla on the tongue as it warmed.

Impressions: I hope I can have this on tap someday, or perhaps find it in a nitro can, because although it tastes very nice, the carbonation of the bottled product is a bit harsh in mouthfeel.

Will I buy this beer again? It's satisfying; not too sweet; a very good session porter and good value for the money. One of those things you need to be in the mood for, as opposed to being a regular player, but I would serve this as a dessert beer without hesitation.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Road Dog

Price comparison: About the same as national-branded beer.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 6.08%

Cute bottle/label? Standard twelve-ounce brown glass; label depicts a punk-ass bad (as in "bad to the bone" bad, not poorly-drawn) pen-and-ink drawing of a pit bull in shades saying, "Good beer; no shit." Also a mini-lineup on the side of "the Flying Dog Litter of Ales," clever, but too small to make out the names as such.

For the record, I would like to state that I bought this almost completely on the basis of being attracted to the label.

Appearance: Dark brownish-black with a thin tan head that disappated to a small disc of lace on the beer's surface.

Scent: Black grapes and malt.

Flavor: Hoppier than I expected given the scent; nicely bitter and citrusy with a finish reminiscent of dark greens like kale or spinach.

Impressions: The bottle says this is a Scottish porter. I found this quite drinkable indeed, but it feels thinner than a porter and more bitter than a typical Scottish ale. I'm not sure how to characterize this. Dark color notwithstanding, I'm inclined to just call it a "bitter" and recommend it with nice strong food like curry or Szechuan.

Will I buy this beer again? It tastes good and is very refreshing, even though it's not really a porter. And it's got a really cool label. How can you not want a beer that has one of the Seven Words You Can't Say on Television right on it in plain sight?

I'm not going to buy it again just yet, but only because I now know about the Flying Dog brewery and am curious about its other offerings (litter-mates). Once I've tried those, I imagine I'll be having some more Road Dog.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Boddington's Pub Ale

Price comparison: About $2 more per 24 ounces than the average national domestic.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 4.7%

Cute bottle/label? Black and yellow nitro can depicting a barrel with two bees (representing the two B's of Boddingtons Breweries) sitting on it.

Appearance: Pale gold with the trademark tight head and downward-flowing carbonation of the nitro can. Thin strips of lace left behind as the glass is emptied; diagonal smears of near-microscopic bubbles cluster on the glass below the surface of the ale.

Scent: Maybe a little bit of malt and yeast, but really nothing specifically discernable in the aroma.

Flavor: Very smooth and subtle; slight hops and a vaguely metallic finish.

Impressions: Take the can out of the fridge ten minutes before cracking it open and it tastes a lot better than if you pour it cold.

Will I buy this beer again? It's pretty good, but the best thing about it by far is the mouthfeel; the creamy nitro texture combined with the low ABV make for a very comfortable brew altogether. It doesn't have a lot of distinction, flavorwise, and it's a bit pricey, but I wouldn't hesitate to purchase this again, especially if I was going to be serving it to someone unused to higher alcohol ales. Also, while its lack of assertiveness works against it as a session brew, in my opinion, it works in its favor in terms of versatility; this ale would taste right with just about any food.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Hops Infusion

Price comparison: About the cost of a national domestic.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 6.2%

Cute bottle/label? None (bought ½ gallon on cask).

Appearance: Translucent orange with nicely tingly carbonation. Small ivory head with a semicircle of lace around the perimeter of the surface.

Scent: Floral hops with some starchy sweetness like buttered cornbread.

Flavor: Bitter citrus and hops, some malt that is mostly overtaken by the hoppiness; a pepper/lemon zest finish.

Impressions: Very bitter (seven kinds of hops!) and its light mouthfeel and not-painful ABV make it a good thirst quencher.

Will I buy this beer again? I liked this pretty well. It definitely wants something salty to balance the hops, so plan accordingly or you'll finish off the whole bag of pretzels without being aware of it. I had it with spicy food at dinner and avoided the eating-too-much issue, but only barely. I'm enjoying the whole novelty of being able to purchase draught beer without having to buy a keg of macrobrew, so this is probably going to be my Super Bowl beer this year.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Delirium Tremens

Price comparison: About twice as much as the average national domestic.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 8½%

Cute bottle/label? Snowy white opaque 750ml bottle, deckled in navy blue. Corked, caged; neck wrapped in blue foil. The label itself depicts crocodiles with sunglasses, a couple of dragons balancing on gold balls, and - of course - pink elephants.

Appearance: Hazy peach-colored with large white head and blobs of lace on the glass.

Scent: Malt, cream and lemon, and some pepperiness.

Flavor: Strong malt and pepper, Earl Gray tea. The carbonation is very lively. The finish is a bit alcoholic.

Impressions: This is quite good, but not necessarily as drop-dead-gorgeous as I was led to believe by the kid at the IHOD.

Will I buy this beer again? I love the bottle; it's adorable. I understand there are snifters with pink elephants available as well; I might buy this again if I could get matching glasses. I'm not disappointed by this, except in the sense that it's a Belgian (old family brewery, not Trappist) and I tend to set very high standards for Belgian beer. As far as the flavor and the kick are concerned, La Fin du Monde is better balanced and more cost-effective overall as well.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Dixie Blackened Voodoo Lager

Recommended by: trinity63

Availability: Couldn't get it in Connecticut, but found it in New York.

Price comparison: About $3 more per six-pack than national-branded beer.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 5%

Cute bottle/label? Standard twelve-ounce brown glass; label depicts a murky mysterious moonlit bayou. Spooky-cool.

Appearance: Dark brownish-black that glowed garnet when held to the light. Tan head that left thick smears of lace on the glass.

Scent: Black grapes; malt; coffee.

Flavor: Smooth, sweet malt with not much hops, also a light smokiness around the edges.

Impressions: This beer is eminently drinkable. Slighly overcarbonated and almost deliberately sweet and salty at once, a perfect balance for Cajun or (as I had it tonight) Tex-Mex food.

Will I buy this beer again? Not as elusive as the Sam Adams Triple Bock was, but still pretty hard to get to, and kind of pricy. However, I like it an awful lot. I figure I'll buy it whenever I'm in New York anyway, just out of convenience, but I'm really not in New York a lot.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Golden Monkey

Price comparison: About $2 more than the average national domestic, for a six-pack, but I bought it on cask, so closer to three times the price.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 9.5%

Cute bottle/label? Had a 32-ounce growler filled up at the taps at the MOBY DICK. No label.

Appearance: Light yellow with a bright white (but sparse) head, and no lace.

Scent: Malt, citrus, some vanilla and sweet spices.

Flavor: I was reminded of lemon meringue pie; kind of a creamy citrus flavor with a graham backbone. Malt and pepper at the finish with a slightly powdery mouthfeel.

Impressions: I guess you could call this abbey-style, but it's no Belgian. It is, however, light, refreshing, fairly easy to find in this part of the country (though not usually on tap in a store, nice!), has enough alcohol to be fun but not so much as to overpower the taste, and is flavorful enough to hold its own with lowbrow snacks or ta-da-ish dinners.

Will I buy this beer again? In the bottle, I can take this one or leave it; it's not bad at all, though there are other abbey tripels that I prefer. I like this better on tap than in the six-pack, and I'd probably buy it on tap again if it was available at the same time I had an empty growler on hand.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

HopDevil Ale

Price comparison: About the cost of a national domestic.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 6.7%

Cute bottle/label? Twelve ounce standard-shaped; label has a cluster of hops with added eyes, pointed ears, and devil horns, in case the point had not been put across by the name.

Appearance: About the color of strong tea; decent carbonation and creamy suds with a decent half-island of lace left on the surface.

Scent: Hops, of course, but also nice citrus and some clove and caraway.

Flavor: A strong grapefruit flavor predominates, but malt is also detectable. Black pepper bite at the finish.

Impressions: This is indeed a very hoppy ale, but not aggressively so. Quite drinkable considering the ABV.

Will I buy this beer again? It's not special. However, it is affordable and tasty, which go pretty far with me. I mean, not everything can be a Belgian, right?

I've yet to have an India Pale Ale that was a diva and this is no exception; you can put it with just about anything savory and it'll match well (although the grapefruity dryness of this one seems to be begging for good New England seafood). I'll be having this again, probably very soon.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Leffe Blonde

Price comparison: About 1½ times the cost of a national domestic.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 6.6%

Cute bottle/label? Twelve ounce standard-shaped. Glass is lighter brown than usual. Gold foil wrap and parchment-painted label. Separate shoulder label proclaims it an abbey ale "anno 1240".

Appearance: Light gold with a foamy head and slight lace. Looks like pilsner.

Scent: Apples and bananas; not much yeast, a bit of malt.

Flavor: A hint of malt and mint. Slight peppery alcohol finish with a smidge of hops. Very delicate and nicely balanced.

Impressions: The lightest, least complex Belgian I've ever encountered. If you're used to lagers or pilsners and want to work your way into the pale ales, this is a great place to start.

Will I buy this beer again? They recommend you drink this stuff out of its own specially-designed chalice (sold separately, of course), but I had it in a wine goblet and the beer police haven't arrested me yet. It's not the best Belgian I've ever had; nothing extraordinary, but it's tasty, reasonably priced considering its heritage, and the subtle flavoring renders it really versatile. I'll probably buy this one again and it'll be the one I hand out when I say to someone, "Want something to drink?" and they're foolish enough to say, "Uh, do you have any beer?" (Pfft. Do I have any beer.)

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Prelude Special Ale

Price comparison: Priced about the same as or only slightly more than the average national domestics.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 7.5%

Cute bottle/label? 22 ounce brown glass; green label with a nice holiday tableau painted thereon. I have also had this on tap countless times; it's not local as such, but fairly close to home nonetheless.

Appearance: Dark clear amber with thick tan head and lingering laciness on the glass.

Scent: I never have this ale without being reminded of pancakes and maple syrup. Malt is strongly present, as is a rich sweetness that could be interpreted as anything from caramel to ice cream. This tasting was the first time I ever had it from a bottle and it has a bit more hoppiness (like flowers) to the aroma than it does when served from the tap.

Flavor: Predominantly hops, some malt in the background. Surprisingly unlike its aroma, it tastes and feels like drinking British-style bitter. The alcohol is virtually unnoticeable in the flavor, but make no mistake, it's present.

Impressions: "Prelude" is sort of a gray area. It supposedly refers to the time period from right before Thanksgiving through Christmas, and I personally never heard of it, though I grew up in New England, until I first had this seasonal ale in a local pub. Presumably, it's not so much a specific time as it is a season that seems almost - but not quite - to be set entirely by commercialism. When you start seeing the first Christmas ads in the newspaper, hit the pubs; they'll be rolling out the Prelude shortly.

I used to know it was "prelude" when the pub got this beer on tap, but now that I don't drink at the pub as much, I tend to think of "prelude" as the time my Christmas tree goes up to the time I get up the energy to pull it down.

I like the sort of festive feeling I get drinking this beer, but I'm never sure how much of that emotion comes from the actual flavor of the beer and how much is derived from that incomparable atmosphere of near-holiday that it evokes - a combination of memory and anticipation that is universal, no matter what winter holiday, festival, or gift-exchange-for-no-good-reason that you choose to celebrate.

Will I buy this beer again? I had, as I mentioned, never purchased this in a bottle before. Now that I know it's available, yes, I'll get it again. It's seasonal, but its got a sufficient sugar content that it would probably cellar well for a year or so. And yes, it does reappear every year. It's a perfectly acceptable bitter and the cute wintery-looking label make this a good "pressure's off" informal drink to have after the more uptight of your holiday guests have departed.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Belhaven Wee Heavy

Price comparison: About twice the price of everyday beer.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 6.5%

Cute bottle/label? Wide 500ml brown glass bottle with raised lettering: "Belhaven est. 1719" on the shoulders. Rampant red lion on the label; gilded lettering proclaiming the brand.

Appearance: Dark clear amber with a thick head and consistent lacing.

Scent: Toasted malt, some unnameable spiciness in the background.

Flavor: Rich and smoky, with a snappy finish. Reminded me of the smell of pipe tobacco.

Impressions: Recommended by John over at the IHOD, who has learned my tastes and is constantly on the lookout for a new beer for me to review. Good boy. This ale would be incongruous with anything spicier than black pepper, and would taste downright weird with ethnic food, I think, but seems nearly tailor-made to wash down burgers and fries.

Will I buy this beer again? I really enjoyed the taste of this beer, but I love that name: wee heavy. I mean, doesn't that just totally speak volumes? It won't be a regular, at that price, but yeah, it's a nice treat.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

P.S.: I've found out why they call it Wee Heavy. I had to get up about once an hour last night. It's okay, though; I still like it.

Old Speckled Hen

New feature:

If you recommend a beer to me, and I am able to acquire some for reviewing, and you have a website for which you'd like some extra traffic, I will give you thanks and a link back to your site.

Drawbacks to this feature:

• I can't always acquire the beers people recommend. Some of them simply aren't available or shippable to this part of the country.
• If I hate the beer you've recommended, are you really going to want a link back?

So I don't know how well this will work out in the long run, but, fortunately, in this case, it worked out well.

Recommended by: ska-t

Availability: The IHOD had it in bottles, all right, but I had to drive to Vernon to get it in cans.

Price comparison: Around the same price as everyday beer.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 5.2%

Cute bottle/label? The IHOD had clear glass bottles with octagonal white labels, either a single 25 ouncer or a four-pack of standards. The cans, which are a light beige, are not available at the IHOD.

You may wonder why I'm harping on the difference here. Read on.

Appearance: Out of the bottle: dark reddish. The head fizzled out almost immediately. Out of the can: glowing clear copper, with the cascading nitro head of a good stout, settling to clear and bubbly with a nice creamy topping.

Scent: From the nitro can, somewhat sweet, yet a touch of alcohol at the same time, like cough drops.

And here is the main reason I have been harping on the differences ...

From the clear glass bottle: SKUNK.

Flavor: From the nitro can: cream and vanilla with a background of banana and brown sugar and a crisp, lightly bitter finish. The mouthfeel of a stout with the flavor of a fine pale ale.

From the bottle: SOUR. Not pleasant.

Impressions: I had a helluva time with this one, as it had been recommended by someone whose opinion I respect, and my first encounter with it, in the bottle, was so unpleasant I was terrified to give it another go. However, I really felt that I couldn't review it in good conscience unless I gave it the benefit of the doubt, and I'm glad I did. The nitro cans, while not as conveniently available as the bottles to me, make Old Speckled Hen eminently drinkable, whereas the clear glass bottles, a bad idea in any case, caused my first experience to be a scary one. I'm grateful I was able to get past it without trauma.

Will I buy this beer again? Only in the nitro can. I not only do not recommend the bottled, I heartily advise against it. The can, on the other hand, rocks my world.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses for the canned version only

Magic Hat #9

Price comparison: Priced about the same as the average national domestics.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 5.1%

Cute bottle/label? Standard six-pack or single 1.375 pint brown glass bottle; label art is very funky/retro/cosmic-by-design. If you order this stuff in a bar, make sure the bartender or server gives you the cap, inside of which you will find such words of wisdom as (on this particular cap) "Don't tease - aim to please."

Appearance: The clever hippie retro label proclaims #9 to be a "not-quite-pale ale", which is pretty accurate labeling, since this really qualifies as a fruit brew (apricot). I'm not sure whether the color owes to natural coloring or if it's enhanced in some way, but it definitely pours a golden apricot color, giving you a hint of what to expect. Light natural carbonation; thin head but decent lacing.

Scent: Although the first inhalation is unmistakably apricot, with hints of honeysuckle or some other sweet blossom, #9 is not pretending at wine-cooler status and overall the perfumes balance well with a pronounced maltiness overall.

Flavor: Again, the apricot flavor is prevalent and yet manages to be neither overpowering nor sweet. Hints of raisin and citrus in the background, with a dry finish not unlike chablis.

Impressions: Magic Hat #9 is not a new beer to me. I had it first at an old-fashioned pub that had dozens of beers on tap and over a hundred bottled, from imports to local microbrews. The servers were very knowledgeable about their products and remembered their customers' tastes from visit to visit, so that I was able, after a few visits, to say to a server I'd had before, "Surprise me," and she would bring a new beer for me to try, and almost always, she'd be right. Magic Hat #9 was one of those pleasant surprises.

Unfortunately, it raised my expectations a bit. I've gotten to a point where I expect all fruit beers to be like the #9: unmistakably beer, but a beer where the end judgment is inevitably that, without the fruit, it would be something else entirely. In other words, Magic Hat #9 is what I had wanted Éphémère to be: refreshing, light, definitely beer and definitely bringing an essence of fruit to the party at the same time - likewise, the girliness factor of the fruit and perfume is balanced by the cool graphics and quip under the cap.

Will I buy this beer again? I buy this beer all the time. No reason to stop now. It's versatile and thirst-quenching. Pairs well with seafood or with salty snacks. Its low alcohol content makes it a wise choice if you have to work in the morning, but if you're drinking to get drunk, you need quite a lot of this stuff to get a buzz, so pick a table or barstool with a clear path to the restrooms.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses

Casta Bruna

Price comparison: About a buck more than I pay for everyday beer. Not bad.

Alcohol percentage by volume: 5.35%

Cute bottle/label? Four-pack of 12-ounce brown glass bottles. Label is a painting of a collage of bottles, done in the Oaxacan style. I can honestly say I bought the beer at least in part because I was attracted to the label art.

Appearance: Dark reddish brown; clear and bubbly. The head didn't retain at all, but did leave a bit of fizz floating on top.

Scent: Cranberries and malt.

Flavor: Malty, with just enough bitterness to make it interesting. There's a bit of a sweetness-with-acidity, like honey-lemon tea, in the background.

Impressions: I was looking for a new beer to have with Mexican food because I seem to have lost my taste for Corona. This pale ale comes off like a cross between one of the Belgian pale ales and an English bitter, closer to the English, but still, very pleasant and refreshing. I don't think I'd mind this by itself, but it comes off as pretty versatile, in that it would pair just as well with nachos and guacamole as it would with empanadas or carne asada. I also see no reason not to have this with a slice of pizza.

Will I buy this beer again? We eat a lot of Mexican food around here.

Rating:

3½ out of 5 cute beer glasses